Golden spindle: Ministry of industry and trade as the main apologist for the fashion industry
Yes, this year’s festival (the logo is a stylized Faberge egg with diamond mesh “designed to represent the virtuosity of execution peculiar to the Russian masters, and also symbolizes the revival of the Russian industry of fashion and design”) brought factories and designers with the noble purpose of their further cooperation. However, the next exhibition in the CDs, have not moved – these partnerships have not happened: neither of the Vologda lace firm “snowflake”, nor “Krestetsky line”. And here are the names emerging talents: Daria Babayev (interesting lady who wrote about Vogue), Lidia Smirnova (Google is silent about it), Grigoriy Korobeynikov (ohmic witty offered the girl Timate Anastasia Reshetova to remove myself in the mirror for the lookbook), Dmitriy Diyarov (search engines think of him only in connection with the “Russian seasons”).
Now the festival organizers are moving away from “labels should be in Russian style”. Maciejowski admits that commercial factories are not designed for mass production. So next year, designers will try to reduce already with the serial manufacturers of fabrics and garments, though to use the submitted papers can only be made in Russia material: cotton, wool, linen, viscose and leather.
The main partner of “Russian seasons” – the Ministry of industry and trade. Triangular logo of the Ministry emblazoned in the header of the website and press the oxen of the festival, and the exhibition at TSUM in may 2017 was opened by the head of the Ministry Denis Manturov. Traditional painting and lace are used in the Ministry the downloads: without folk arts and crafts “it is impossible to imagine the spiritual development of society” (about as!), said the Director of profile Department Dmitry Kolobov. To persuade officials of the Ministry of industry and trade to support the “Russian seasons” Maciejowski managed for the year. She sent the proposal, called her up, then draft several times I had to redo it and agree.
The Ministry is funding the festival, but the amount maciejowski refused to name; in the Department SNC did not disclose figures. However, more recently, in “Russian seasons” there are other sponsors: Department store, and the company SMEG (colored retrogradely). In the future Seasons will bring the money, hoping Daria. Though already now the company “Matsant”, legal entity of the festival, in the black: in 2016, it has received almost 700 000 profits on sales of 1.3 million according to base “SPARK-Interfax”.
The capital of style
In recent years, the Ministry of industry and trade is the main advocate of the fashion industry from the state. At least the logo of this Agency is most often found in competitions of regional designers, and it allocates money to the Russian production of clothing. Men’s shirts, women’s blouses, knitted t-shirts with prints of cats – a partial list of products of the domestic companies receiving financial assistance from the Ministry of industry and trade. Among the most popular support measures – subsidies for interest on loans or borrowing. Although textile factories get them often, clothing manufacturers also do not neglect the opportunity to apply for the subsidy. For example, the Rostov company “Alice Fashion Rus”, which sells women’s clothes in dozens of stores across the country under the brands of Elis and Lalis (this is exactly what you imagine hearing the phrase “Office style”), and in 2015 received a total of nearly 19 mlnrubley from the Ministry of industry and trade, according to the unified portal of the budget system.
Feasible help and get better known to readers SNC brands: for example, “Rusmoda” Oksana Lavrentieva, the management of Alexander Terekhov, in October of 2017 received 205 000 rubles for the registration of a trademark abroad. Frankly, a little bit: “Gloria Dzhins” Vladimir Melnikov, occupying 164-e a place in rating of the richest businessmen of Russia Forbes, Department Denis Manturov appropriated in 2014, a total of about 80 million roubles. It is, however, negligible for the “Gloria jeans” sum of its profit in 2016 exceeded 3.5 billion rubles.
The regional authorities are not far behind, sponsoring the measure forces local clothing manufacturers and fashion festivals. The authorities of St. Petersburg in 2017 even decided to transform the cultural capital of Russia in design and adopted a priority project under the “creative” name of “Saint Petersburg – the center of the fashion industry and light industry.” By 2020 the city budget needs to unfasten it 460 million roubles – for the sake of production growth at a modest 10%, should be from the passport project. Two years ago, the city of St. Petersburg has attempted to help local designers: for example, in the arcade of three months opened “Show room No. 35”, where designers could exhibit their collections, wrote “Fontanka”. The project cost the regional budget of 10 million rubles, and the designers participating in the showroom earned only 4 million.
Thinking about the future of the St. Petersburg fashion cluster, the authors wisely a priority project identified “the need to respond to large challenges such as the threat of loss of national and cultural identity of citizens.” To counter the threat through design Petersburg will be developed together with the authorities of the Ivanovo region: in summer they agreed to cooperate in the creation of fashion clusters.
Ivanovo is also vying for the title of the main fashion region of Russia: no wonder that’s about this town, Boris Grebenshikov wrote one of his best songs – “Weaver”. But here’s the argument: in 2011 the local “Textile salon”, funded by the government of the region, was held under the slogan “Ivanovo – the capital of youth fashion”. One is to be expected – competition of Russian designers is not limited to: local club “Business woman” under the patronage of Zaytsev’s annually holds a festival of fashion “Plyos on the Volga. Linen palette”. It cost 1.7 million rubles: so much, according to the portal of public procurement, the organization has received for the festival in 2011 and 2012 from the state Plyos Museum-reserve. Well, almost wedding party Yana Rudkovskaya. Such festivals are conducted in other regions: competition of young designers “the fashion Formula “East-West” in Omsk, “Provincial style” in the Tula and Voronezh. Moreover, they are positioned as social projects: first, according to the public procurement, wrote to 50 000 rubles to the regional Ministry of education, the second received grants for 200 000-600 000 from the governments of Tula and Voronezh regions as “youth project”, said SNC his producer Nikolay Sapelkin. All are supported by the Ministry of industry and trade, partnership with the Agency say the organizers. But financing from the budget of the office of the regional competitions receive. “As a project of the fashion industry we have received moral support – the greeting of the Minister of culture of Russia, diplomas of the Ministry of education, the visits of the officials of the Ministry of industry and trade,” says Sapelkin. A “simple attention”, said the producer and the event’s status is not affected: it does not matter.
The attempt of globalization
Its role in fashion projects, the Ministry most often associates with the promotion of Russian fashion endeavors. “Informational support, promotion of light industry” – the representative of Department described the partnership with exhibitions and competitions. Three years ago the Ministry even tried to promote Russian designers abroad, has launched a program of Open Russian Fashion, which was to help domestic fashion designers to enter new markets. As a result, the office reported only two trips: designers took the fashion Weeks in Milan and Beijing, where they presented the collection on a separate stand.
“You can talk about lack of preparation and spontaneity for this trip, – says the co-founder of the jewelry brand Mineral Weather Alexander Olkhovsky, who went with Open Russian Fashion in Milan. But still, it gave us a great opportunity: our collection I bought a few Italian showrooms”. Designer Katerina Filippova adds that the trip helped to make new contacts and get a “small” promotion. The organization of the trip engaged in office Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, they invited people, said Olkhovsky and Filippov. Open Russian Fashion took on the costs of participation in the exhibition, and tickets and accommodation are designers paid for themselves.
Promote designers within the country should serve contests, said in June the Deputy Minister of industry Viktor Evtukhov. As an example, he cited the “Golden spindle” and “Russian silhouette”, among the partners of both the national Academy of the fashion industry, Vyacheslav Zaitsev and the Ministry of industry and trade. Not all designers agree with Evtuhova: “Golden spindle” sounds archaic, we would not want to be associated with such a name,” – said Olkhovsky. The peculiarity of the Russian fashion industry that manufacture and designers are divorced from each other, says maciejowski. There are factories that “somewhere in the Soviet five-year plans,” they closed as a recreational area. “And the problem with talented designers we have,” with optimism she concludes.